New Year's in Busan and Gyeongju! Pt. 4

New Year's Eve didn't end on the beach, it didn't go out with a bang with fireworks.However, I didn't want the last post to end on a sour note.

After the beach and fireworks at midnight we had the urge to play darts. Me and Jaeeun have acquired a fascination for darts after her visits to Mokpo and playing darts at Moe's. Jaeeun took me to a bar she had spotted earlier that looked promising. We sat and observed and drank our nasty flavored beers (passion fruit and chocolate, not a winner). There was a dartboard with a board where you signed up to wait your turn. I wrote "Kyle" in big letters. There was another couple that came in perhaps 20 minutes later. They were clearly confused by the board and put there names before ours. We waited patiently, perhaps 30 minutes before it was our turn. The board had been messed up, my name erased by that time. We remained calm, cool and collected. The "crazy couple" consisting of a Korean girl and her European boyfriend freaked out at us. Jaeeun got a little angry :). Nevertheless I ceded and let them go first, let children be children. We played our darts eventually, I did terribly and Jaeeun cheated.

Cute as can be

The "crazy couple" as J called them

Day 4

The Plan: Wake up bright and early for the New Year's Sunrise Festival at Haeundae Beach.

The Result: We woke up late but still made it with plenty of time to spare

The Story:

A few hours of sleep later it was time for our main goal on our 4 day trip. We were destined to watch the "first sun" of 2012 make its ascent into the sky. Being in Korea we would be among the first in the world to see it. We woke up two hours late! It was still dark and as we scampered through the streets of Haeundae to the beach. We made it to the beach and Jaeeun wanted to get one of the complimentary balloons given out to be released at sunrise. We waited in line but they eventually ran out before we could get one.

We made our way through the crowded beach until we found a suitable spot to stand and wait among the hundreds of thousands of early morning spectators. It was a little chilly but I kept warm thanks to the knit hat that Jaeeun made me for Christmas. We laughed at a group of Koreans that made a plunge into the frigid ocean to celebrate New Years. It seemed like an eternity before we caught saw the orange glow on the eastern horizon, the sun was on its way. All eyes gazed east and it seemed like it was just me and Jaeeun out there on the beach, never mind the thousands huddled around us. The orange glow got brighter and brighter until at last a sliver of an orb could be seen and the huge crowd applaud. A countdown began and thousands of golden balloons were released into the sky at once with music and celebration. The sun was exceptionally big that morning, we're talking the beginning of Lion King big. It sounded silly at first, watching the sun go up on a cold beach. In reality it was one of the more special moments I could ever experience. 2012 promises to be a special year.

Waiting in the dark

Me and Jaeeun

The Korean swimmers

Waiting amongst the thousands

The first sun arrives!

Hello sun

After the sunrise we went to Starbucks which was surprisingly not crowded. It was around noon when we went to Shinsegae Centum City, the biggest department store in the world. We exited the subway station and the department city loomed before us, it was incredibly massive! We were excited as Jaeeun chased me into the store only to find...the majority of the store was closed for New Years. We settled for a visit to the bookstore, Jaeeun got me a notebook I could use for taking notes and journaling. We then went on a wild goose chase to look for a good meal. We wound up in a popular shopping and dining district. We were lost for a moment, I get cranky when I am hungry, but luckily Jaeeun puts up with me. The food was delicious! We got some snacks at a little bread shop and made our way to Busan Station for our return home on what would be a very crowded train!

Delicious food! Worth the wait and journey!

We got to the train station with perhaps 10 minutes to spare. We thought we had done well to get there early. We waited on the platform...and the mob arrived. We packed into the train with no where to sit and little room to stand. I got us a spot by the vending machine where we had to sit for 4 hours on the floor, the last hour we had to listen to two old men fighting and cussing at each other. We would eventually get to Sintanjin station again. It was biting cold in Sintanjin and we were hungry, we had to settle for Lotteria. We got in the next train to Mokpo, this one with less people but still no seats. We had to cram ourselves into one of the seats used for the pay computers for an hour or two. The closer we got to Mokpo more people left the train until we could finally get seats in one of the cars. We reached Mokpo, tired and weary but full of incredible memories.

Sardines

Me and Jaeeun on the floor

Exhausted

New Year's in Busan and Gyeongju! Pt. 3

Day 3: Gyeongju/Busan

Day 3 looked to be more promising the Day 2. We had a full day to spend in Gyeongju. Our first destination was the famous Bulguksa Temple. Built in 774 A.D. it is perhaps the most famous temple in Korea. It's stone architecture and pagodas make it unique among Korea's temples. We took a bus to Bulguksa and trekked up the little hill to the temple. I've seen many temples at this point in Korea. Bulguksa was indeed very beautiful. We enjoyed our time there and making people take our picture. I got yelled at for taking a picture of Buddha. This is a no-no. I was impressed by the age and detail in a lot of the wood and stonework. We breezed through quite quickly in about an hour's time.

Jaeeun looking dangerous

Walking up to Bulguksa

Bulguksa

Outside of Bulguksa

Stones inside Bulguksa

Dabotap (L) and Seokgatap (R)

*Dabotap is the pagoda on the back of the 10 Won coin*

We then took the bus back to Gyeongju to eat lunch. On our way to lunch we went and looked at Cheomseongdae, which is the oldest astronomical observatory in East Asia. It was built in the 7th Century. The whole time we were there I wanted to climb inside. Jaeeun suggested I not, because of her I am still alive! We then went to eat Sundubu! Sundubu is tofu soup that can have seafood, meat and vegetables. This Sundubu was delicious but extremely hot!

Very old indeed

Looking good with our stylish glasses

Yet even more tombs

Sundubu

I admit it, the tombs are quite incredible. We had to see them and see them up close. So we went to Daereungwon Tomb Complex which is maybe a five minute walk from downtown. The tombs are bunched together and look like something from out of this world. Daereungwon has a beautiful park atmosphere. It's great for a leisurely stroll among dead Korean royalty. You can even go inside a tomb! After Daereungwon we left Gyeongju and headed back to Busan on a sweltering hot train. This time directly back to Haeundae, because Jaeeun is smart!

Tombs, Tombs Everywhere!

It was quite beautiful

You can even go inside! Indiana Jones tourist style!

One of the many things Busan is known for is fish. What does Jaeeun love to eat? Fish. What do we like to look at? Fish. Where did we go next? Busan Aquarium. I loved the aquarium. It's pretty sizable and does include a walk through fish tank. We spent a good two hours at the aquarium. I had the camera and Jeaeun told me what pictures to take. We had to closely examine each tank and fish. Jaeeun told me which fish were good to eat. I came away with valuable knowledge. Win!

We emerged from the aquarium exit directly to the beach. We had a short time to play on the frigid beach, certainly a Kodak moment. Kyle had a craving for a hamburger, Jaeeun obliged. We went looking for the giant Centum City department store, the biggest in the world. We couldn't find it but we found the most delicious bakery in the world, or perhaps Busan. It should be mentioned that Jaeeun say she isn't hungry a lot. However, I will say that I am hungry and we will go get some food, Jaeeun will end up eating it. The bakery was an example. :)

Eventually midnight rolled around. Haeundae Beach was the perfect venue for our celebration. We sat on the beach along with the small groups of people who came out to ring in 2012. We had no T.V., no official countdown or party. It was just us and that's what it made it so special. A group of Koreans eventually started the countdown, 3-2-1! Me and Jaeeun rang in 2012 together. We hope to make 2012 a year to always cherish and remember.

It wouldn't be complete without fireworks

The Year of the Dragon

New Year's in Busan and Gyeongju! Pt. 2

Day 2: Busan/Gyeongju

Gyeongju is one of the most famous sites in all of Korea. The city itself is like a giant open air museum. It boasts hundreds of historical sites from the Silla Dynasty, one of Korea's "Three Kingdoms" (Baekje, Silla, Goguryeo). The Silla Dynasty lasted from the 1st Century AD to the 10th Century. Temples, royal tombs and dozens of other sites frequented by the Silla kings of old. It is a must see if you are going to Korea. Me and Jaeeun planned to make the most of our trip there.

Phase 1: We made little plans in advance, only to see some of the hotspots.

Phase 2: Getting There

We awoke somewhat early the next day of our trip to head to the famous city of Gyeongju. Gyeongju is about 1 hour north of Busan via train. We again had difficulties finding a train from Busan Station, we made a connection in Daegu and then to Gyeongju. We later found out that Haeundae Station has a regular train to Gyeongju :(.

Phase 3: Gyeongju

We arrived in Gyeongju rather exhausted. Our first stop was to get some famous Gyeongju bread...which was absolutely everywhere!!! After that we walked around trying to find a place to stay. We figured New Year's in Gyeongju would be fairly quiet, we were wrong. We spent a good 2-3 hours looking for the guesthouse we originally wanted, Sarangchae. It is a guesthouse with individual buildings based on traditional architecture. We finally gave up and decided to look for food which we originally found to be very difficult. We eventually found a little restaurant in an inconspicuous looking building aside the tombs.

Inside the little restaurant

Yum yum!

We never found our guesthouse and they never answered our calls. We settled for a hostel which I will not name. This hostel was terrible, dirty and expensive. It was already evening at this point and we had accomplished very little. So we went out to the famous Anapji Pond! It is a site where the Silla royalty used to throw parties. It was originally built in 674 A.D. My love of history and passion for archaeology was kicked into full throttle! Me and Jaeeun loved Anapji. It is beautiful at night and the surrounding sites were decorated with beautiful Christmas lights.

Anapji Pond

Enjoying the lights

After Anapji we went on a quest for ssambab. Ssambab is a traditional meal where you wrap vegetables, sidedishes and meat in lettuce with rice included. We found an incredible restaurant. It too was like a museum inside full of Korean antiques primarily from the 20th Century. I though the food was great! Like a lot of Korean food it was very salty though.

Antiques everywhere

Ssambab

Ssambab, like a boss.

Ssambab was consumed. We walked to downtown Gyeongju. I learned to eventually like the town. At first it was easy to get lost, but like Mokpo, everything is very close together. On the way we passed dozens of tombs. The tombs range in height, some only a few feet tall and maybe 10 ft in diameter to tombs that soar fifty feet in height and 100 feet across. I used my imagination, imagining a zombie apocalypse, Jaeeun though I was crazy for being so creative. I went on a little rant about how Peter Jackson could have filmed some Lord of the Rings here, Jaeeun put up with me. Truth be told these tombs are quite terrifying at night, especially in the moonlight. My traumatic experience was rewarded with gelato. Day 2, success.

One of the many tombs

Gelato

New Year's in Busan and Gyeongju! Pt. 1

I like Jaeeun. She is full of great ideas. One of her great ideas was our special trip to Gyeongju and Busan. It turned to be my most fun filled experience in Korea. The sights we saw and our time together created new stories and memories for us.

Phase 1: Planning

Me and Jaeeun decided to go to Busan and Gyeongju maybe three weeks prior to our trip. We had an interesting time trying to prepare for the trip. Me with my limited Korean and Jaeeun with her limited English. We planned and planned and planned...

However, our plans weren't cemented until 8 hours before we left. As stressful and as humorous as it was we got the job done! Oh but don't worry! We had more surprises and difficulties ahead!

Phase 2: Getting There

We left early on the morning with our Nailro Passes, We bought five day passes to use the Korail trains for only about 50,000 Won ($45), a wonderful deal! However, the logistics of getting to Busan from Mokpo...not so wonderful. We first had to head North, yes North to reach Busan. (Mokpo is in the Southwest corner of Korea while Busan is in the Southeast). So we endured a long train ride up north lasting for several hours to the tourist hotspot of Sintanjin Station (terrible place...absolutely nothing).

Sintanjin Station

After Sintanjin we made the last leg of the trip to Busan in a train with no seats available. We had to tough it in the train cafe. The little cafe also had little Noraebangs (singing rooms) included. The last hour we enjoyed the sounds and melodies of a very overconfident Korean male singing his heart and soul out. Through the grimaces and laughter we made it to Busan!

Enduring the sounds of train Noraebang

Phase 3: The Trip

Day 1: Busan

We finally made it to Busan. I never wanted to see another train again in my life or be within earshot of another Noraebang. My first impressions from Busan? Different! This is a city unlike any other city in Korea. It seems more spread out than Seoul, it is warmer, it is next to the ocean and also has a lot of influence from Japanese culture.

Busan Station

Our first stop was Namdo. An area known for hosting the BIFF (Busan International Film Festival), the biggest of it's kind in Asia. We weren't here for the BIFF, we were here for street food! Hodeok, a donut filled with nuts and other things was our target. It was also the target of about 100 other people too. The wait was long but we finally got our prize!

Hodeok!

After Namdo is was off to Jagalchi Fish Market. It is Korea's largest fish market and incredibly massive! On the way in we found whale meat, Jaeeun didn't approve. Inside are hundreds of stalls in the multi story complex that sell hundreds of different kinds of seafood. It was impressive and busy and full of thousands of unfortunate fish.

Jagalchi Fish Market

Outside Jagalchi

After Jagalchi we walked back to Namdo and ate some amazing pork. If there is a pork heaven, Korea is the place. This pork was heaped onto our table. It was a beautiful thing. Thank you Jaeeun for taking me here :)

Mounds of pork...

Reason 384 to come to Korea

Our stomachs were full and we were a little tired. It was time to head to Haeundae to find our hostel, the Pobi Guesthouse. If you know Busan you know that Haeundae is the most famous location. It boasts one of the best beaches in all of Korea. Our Guesthouse was a five minute walk from the beach (too bad it was winter). We shared a room with 3 Korean guys about our age. For it's price it was great! Especially given it's location! After settling down we went back to Namdo again. This time to Arirang Goli or Arirang Street. Arirang Street was completely decorated for Christmas with lights everywhere! Jaeeun definitely fell under the spell of Arirang Street. This was easily one of our favorite parts of Busan.

Arirang Street

Arirang Street and Jaeeun

We love penguins!

Arirang Street

A Christmas Angel

After Arirang Street it was back to Haeundae. We did a little exploring, went to an Irish pub and I become hungry. I needed to find some Japanese Ramen. Our mission was to find food for me, Jaeeun insisted she wasn't hungry. We found it, Jaeeun ate it too. After that it was off to Pobi. Day 1 was a smashing success.